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Photo EssayWorld

Pilgrimage in a time of war

More than 23,000 Hasidim made the annual pilgrimage to Uman, Ukraine, bathing in the freezing waters, crowding the streets and bringing historic culture to the devastated region.
Gianluca Cecere
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Published: 25 October 2022

Last updated: 15 March 2024

While Ukrainians battled Russian invasion and more than seven million refugees fled Ukraine, Haredim from the other direction. Despite warnings from their home governments, thousands of pilgrims from Israel, the US, France and Britain made the journey to pray at the grave of Rabbi Nachman of Bratslav to mark Rosh Hashanah.
The first Rosh Hashanah pilgrimage took place in 1811, organised by the Rebbe’s foremost disciple, Nathan of Breslov, and it has become an annual event.
Uman is relatively far from the front lines in Ukraine’s east and south but it is within the range of Russian missiles and has been struck before. The city was badly hit by Russian missiles in the early weeks of the war.

A pilgrim purifies himself with a ritual bath before praying at Rabbi Nachman's grave
A pilgrim purifies himself with a ritual bath before praying at Rabbi Nachman's grave

A Hasid arriving in Uman approaches the military checkpoint
A Hasid arriving in Uman approaches the military checkpoint

A Starbucks outlet features a Hasid on the logo. The store provides free coffee, tea, milk and petel (fruit punch) to pilgrims.
A Starbucks outlet features a Hasid on the logo. The store provides free coffee, tea, milk and petel (fruit punch) to pilgrims.

Hasdim kasher the kitchen of their rented apartment in Uman.
Hasdim kasher the kitchen of their rented apartment in Uman.

In 2020, thousands of pilgrims failed to reach Uman after Ukraine closed due to a surge in COVID-19 infections, leaving crowds stranded on the country’s borders.

A man with a shofar on his rented bunk in Uman
A man with a shofar on his rented bunk in Uman
Ultra-Orthodox Jewish boys answer a rabbi's questions about the psalms. The boy with the soccer ball received it for a correct answer.
Ultra-Orthodox Jewish boys answer a rabbi's questions about the psalms. The boy with the soccer ball received it for a correct answer.
A crowd of pilgrims in the street in Uman
A crowd of pilgrims in the street in Uman

All photographs: Copyright Gianluca Cecere

About the author

Gianluca Cecere

Gianluca Cecere

Gianluca Cecere is an Naples-based photographer who is working on a major project on religous orthodoxies. He has worked in the Middle East, Asia, Africa, North America, Europe and is represented by Laif Agentur für Photos & Reportagen.

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